Step-by-step instructions for installing DIY gutters with corrugated downspouts and gorgeous cast-aluminum brackets.

In most of the country, homes must have rain gutters and downspouts to collect and carry rainwater. 

If they weren’t there, water would most certainly flow into the basement or crawlspace as well as erode the soil surrounding the foundation and splatter dirt onto the siding.

Gutter installation is often done by professionals, however it is possible for you to do it yourself. The roofing supply shops, lumberyards, and home improvement stores all carry all of the necessary supplies and equipment. 

If you’re going to fix your gutters and downspouts in low gouttières prix, you might as well make your rainwater system look and function better overall.

We’ll show you how to install fake half-round gutters in this section, which are exact replicas of the size and shape of gutters found on older homes. This system includes gorgeous cast aluminium brackets and corrugated downspouts.

Details of Gutters for Rain

The benefits of new gutters outweigh the work required to replace old, rusted, leaky gutters, but many homes still use them. 

What Takes Place If Gutters Are Missing?

Rainwater that lands on the ground after falling from your home’s roof without a gutter could damage the siding and trim. If you have a basement, water might also seep in.

8 Steps for Gutters Installation

  1. Straighten layout lines

The gutter is higher on the extra-wide fascia shown here, and it extends farther down. Mark the highest point of the gutter run on the fascia 14 inches below the metal drip-edge flashing.

  • Keeping in mind that the slope should be approximately 12 inches for every 10 feet of run, mark the low end of the gutter run at the opposite end of the fascia (or at the location of the downspout if there is one in the middle of the run).
  • A chalk line should be drawn connecting the two locations as shown.
  • Check the fascia for decay before installing the gutters and make any necessary repairs.
  1. Put fascia brackets in place
  • Look for nail heads to locate the rafter tails, which are typically 16 inches apart in the middle behind the fascia.
  • With a chalk line, mark the tail of each alternate rafter.
  • Drill an 18-inch pilot hole through the rafter tail and through the fascia at each location.
  • Use 14-inch stainless steel lag screws to attach fascia brackets that are long enough to penetrate rafters by 2 inches (as shown).
  • Using soap will make it simpler to insert the lag screws into the rafter tails and through the fascia.
  1. Adjust gutter length as necessary
  • To cut the gutter piece to length, use a hacksaw with aviation snips or a 12-inch power mitre saw equipped with a carbide-tipped finish blade (as demonstrated).
  • Make the required angle typically 45 degrees on the end where the gutter continues around a bend.
  • If the run requires two gutter pieces, overlap them by 8 inches and fasten them with two rows of four each of 3/8-inch-long self-tapping stainless steel screws or pop rivets.

Tip: Always fasten screws or rivets to the sides of the gutter rather than the bottom. Buy gutter installation service here with low prix gouttière.

  1. Fix the endcaps
  • Use aluminium pop rivets to fasten a spherical end cover to the gutter’s square-cut end. (Attach an end cap to either end if the gutter does not curve around a corner.)
  • To accomplish this, first fasten the end cap with a single sheet-metal screw before drilling a 1/8-inch hole and adding a single pop rivet (as displayed above).
  • Instead of the temporary screw, install a rivet.
  • Use a premium siliconized caulk to establish a watertight seal at the end-cap seam and rivets on the inside of the gutter.
  1. Create drain holes
  • An outlet for the downspout serves as a marker for the downspout’s location on the low end of the gutter.
  • To do this, flip the gutter over and place the outlet on top.
  • By drawing a circle inside the outlet, identify the downspout hole on the gutter.
  • Drill a hole through the circle that is 14 inches in diameter.
  • Turn the gutter over and use a drill and a 4-inch hole saw to make the downspout hole (as shown). (A hammer and cold chisel may also be used to cut the hole.)
  1. Installing gutters
  • Put the gutter into the fascia’s lag-screwed brackets.
  • Adjust the gutter’s rotation so that its back edge slides into the hooks on the tops of the brackets’ backs (as illustrated).
  • Drill a 3/16-inch-diameter hole through the screw-mounting hole in each bracket and into the front edge of the gutter.
  • To attach the gutter to the bracket, a 1-inch-long #8-32 stainless steel machine screw and flanged nut are utilised.

Advice: Spray paint aluminium gutter brackets to contrast or match the trim on your home. Know cout gouttière here.


  1. In the corner, make a strip-miter junction
  • At each corner, the joint between two lengths of gutter should be sealed with a strip mitre, a 3-inch-wide aluminium strip.
  • Around the underside of the gutter, tightly wrap the aluminium strip. Eight sheet metal screws or pop rivets are used to hold it together.
  • Cut a triangle-shaped portion off the strip mitre’s top with scissors (as shown), and then fold the two flaps down to fit around the gutter’s top edge.
  • This junction can also be improved by using a high-quality siliconized caulk.


  1. Fix the gutter-side downspout
  • The downspout outlet should be fastened to the gutter with four pop rivets or screws.
  • The outflow tube that extends from the gutter should be connected to a downspout elbow.
  • Another elbow should be placed up against the house, and a downspout piece should be cut to fit in between the two elbows.
  • Use needlenose pliers to slightly crimp the elbow (as shown) in order to fit it into the downspout.
  • The components are held together by pop rivets or screws.
  • Use two downspout brackets on a one-story house and three brackets on a two-story structure.